Our lives seem like a perfect surfer’s dream. As I searched our photo albums looking through our surf photos for this tribute to Harry's 50 years of surfing, I opened a page in the album to where we lived at
Kaleialoha, right in front of a surf break. Then turning to the next page, there were these two photos.
The first is Ebby and Son, on Ebby's first day of kindergarten. I had purposely placed the kids in front of
my tummy which was starting to bulge with our new baby. The second shot is Harry standing proudly
with his new custom shaped long board. The turning of that photo album's page is allegorical of what was were happening in our life. Turning away from the happy, go lucky, easy life, I carried the responsibility of the family while Harry continued doing what he always had done.
Right before we knew of our third child’s existence, I felt very
restless and unsatisfied in our marriage.
We agreed Harry would stop spending money on new boards, beer and
pot. We both had nice jobs, I worked as a waitress in banquets part time, allowing me to be home with our kids a lot, Harry waited tables at night in a nice restaurant (so he could surf in the day). Though the surf industry was and still is, providing many opportunities to start new businesses, Harry didn't take advantage of it, that wasn't the way he was made. God had other plans for our lives though we didn't recognize any of this at that point. The custom board was Harry's design, a design that made a well known shaper lots of money. It took me years to get over the fact that Harry gave it to the shaper for one new board. He told me people were buying
him beers and giving him pot. He was lying, he couldn't quit, all I could do was inwardly groan. He had been an
alcoholic, marijuana addict before we married. His drinking and smoking always scared me,
sometimes I joined him and other times I put it out of my thoughts. Life was getting boring, I was even
bored reading my favorite spy novels. It was here I started to hunger for the truth. Thankfully the Lord got a hold of Harry
first. I don’t think he would have
followed me to the Way of Truth, John 14:6.
It’s funny, I had thought life
had been so boring with his addictions, I felt living a “religious life” would
be the ultimate absolute bore! I came to find out life with Jesus Christ is a daily adventure.
Luke 10:23 &
24
And he turned him unto his disciples,
and said privately, Blessed are the eyes which see the
things that ye see: For I tell you, that
many prophets and kings have desired to see those things which ye see, and have
not seen them; and to hear those things which ye hear, and have not heard them.
 |
| Mak and Kai |
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| Son |
 |
| Mak |
 |
| Ebby |
Our lives seem like a perfect surfer’s dream. As I searched our photo albums looking through our surf photos for this tribute to Harry's 50 years of surfing, I opened a page in the album to where we lived at
Kaleialoha, right in front of a surf break. Then turning to the next page, there were these two photos.
The first is Ebby and Son, on Ebby's first day of kindergarten. I had purposely placed the kids in front of
my tummy which was starting to bulge with our new baby. The second shot is Harry standing proudly
with his new custom shaped long board. The turning of that photo album's page is allegorical of what was were happening in our life. Turning away from the happy, go lucky, easy life, I carried the responsibility of the family while Harry continued doing what he always had done.
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