Our lives seem like a perfect surfer’s dream. As I searched our photo albums looking through our surf photos for this tribute to Harry's 50 years of surfing, I opened a page in the album to where we lived at Kaleialoha, right in front of a surf break. Then turning to the next page, there were these two photos. The first is Ebby and Son, on Ebby's first day of kindergarten. I had purposely placed the kids in front of my tummy which was starting to bulge with our new baby. The second shot is Harry standing proudly with his new custom shaped long board. The turning of that photo album's page is allegorical of what was were happening in our life. Turning away from the happy, go lucky, easy life, I carried the responsibility of the family while Harry continued doing what he always had done.
Right before we knew of our third child’s existence, I felt very restless and unsatisfied in our marriage. We agreed Harry would stop spending money on new boards, beer and pot. We both had nice jobs, I worked as a waitress in banquets part time, allowing me to be home with our kids a lot, Harry waited tables at night in a nice restaurant (so he could surf in the day). Though the surf industry was and still is, providing many opportunities to start new businesses, Harry didn't take advantage of it, that wasn't the way he was made. God had other plans for our lives though we didn't recognize any of this at that point. The custom board was Harry's design, a design that made a well known shaper lots of money. It took me years to get over the fact that Harry gave it to the shaper for one new board. He told me people were buying him beers and giving him pot. He was lying, he couldn't quit, all I could do was inwardly groan. He had been an alcoholic, marijuana addict before we married. His drinking and smoking always scared me, sometimes I joined him and other times I put it out of my thoughts. Life was getting boring, I was even bored reading my favorite spy novels. It was here I started to hunger for the truth. Thankfully the Lord got a hold of Harry first. I don’t think he would have followed me to the Way of Truth, John 14:6. It’s funny, I had thought life had been so boring with his addictions, I felt living a “religious life” would be the ultimate absolute bore! I came to find out life with Jesus Christ is a daily adventure.
Luke 10:23 & 24
And he turned him unto his disciples, and said privately, Blessed are the eyes which see the things that ye see: For I tell you, that many prophets and kings have desired to see those things which ye see, and have not seen them; and to hear those things which ye hear, and have not heard them.
|Mak and Kai|
|Harry at Honolua Bay, 50 years old|
|Kai probably surfs more today than the other kids,|
she has beautiful style and grace
|Me, years ago with my first board|
|me, surfing Hamoa Bay|